Surfing is an activity in vogue for years. Lovers of the waves are not always easy to come up with favorable beaches to practice their sport, that is, a place with surfable waves. The birth of waves suitable for riding on them requires a combination of several elements: surf conditions, tide and wind. But the essential and indispensable requirement is a low background, as is that of coral reefs.
I described a bold narrative of the surf and spectacular video as an example:
First, the surfer needs to know to wait for a wave or string or train of waves, standing outside the surf zone. When you approach the wave paddle towards it, lying on the table, with the use of his arms. The second step is to catch the wave. The surfer turns the table in the same direction following their prey and tries to reach a speed equal to the absolute progress of the wave. Now is the time, rising above the table, the intrepid rider begins to ride the wild undulation.
Then comes the descent phase, in which the surfer exceeds the absolute velocity of the wave itself, sliding from ridge to the base. Once in the Sufi must be based on body weight shifting, turning the board towards the ridge then down again. This roller-coaster year is repeated several times.
When the wave reaches its maximum height at the peak of the ridge forms a lip or curl that as it is being bent until it breaks. A wave suitable for surfing breaks not simultaneously, but from the middle section is spread laterally without actually catching the rider from water.
The profile of the surf is basic to the possibility of surfing. Depends in important measure of the slope of the base. The ideal slope, according to many experts, would be a ratio of 1:20, meaning that each one is 20 meters of vertical drop, causing cascading surf. Although not all scientists agree with some advocating the ratio 1:5.
But all these notions belong to the mechanics of surfing. Read his poetry also no choice but to resort to the experience. Leaving the theoretical peacefulness of the room, choose clothes, face tracking beaches and solitude in the deep ocean the supreme challenge of the wave.Number of View :6335
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